Short answer: Kitbashing means combining parts from different kits to build a model nobody can buy. Start with a donor model, harvest “bitz” from a spares box, cut and pin the joins, fill the gaps, and — most importantly — keep the silhouette balanced: one dominant element, two supporting elements, everything else subordinate.
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What Is Kitbashing — and Where to Find Spare Parts
Kitbashing (building “conversions”) is taking parts from multiple kits — and scratch-made pieces — to create a unique model. Sources for parts:
- Your spares box: every kit you’ve ever built left useful leftovers — weapons, heads, shields, antennae
- Swap events and club nights: bitz trading is a hobby tradition
- Second-hand lots: buying a cheap bulk lot of half-built models is a parts goldmine
- 3D-printed bits: single parts printed at home fill any gap
- Everyday objects: beads, buttons, springs, watch parts — the original kitbasher’s secret
Essential Tools
- Hobby knife with fresh blade — clean cuts, no crushed plastic
- Plastic cement (welds plastic together; stronger than glue)
- Super glue for resin and metal parts
- Green stuff (two-part epoxy putty) for gap-filling and sculpting
- Pin drill + wire for strong joins on heavy parts
- Side cutters and needle files
Cutting, Pinning and Gap-Filling
- Cut parts off sprues with flat surfaces — clean joins are half the job
- Test-fit before cement. Plastic cement is permanent within seconds
- Pin heavy parts: drill a hole in both halves, insert a wire segment, then cement — gravity is a strong enemy
- Fill gaps: press green stuff into seams, smooth it with a wet sculpting tool, let it cure overnight
- Re-scribe panel lines across filled areas so the repair disappears
Creating Silhouette Balance on Converted Models
A kitbash fails or succeeds at the silhouette stage. The rule:
- One dominant element — the oversized feature that defines the model (a huge weapon, a banner, a mech arm)
- Two supporting elements — secondary additions that echo the theme
- Everything else subordinate — small details that reward close viewing
If three elements fight for dominance, remove one. Squint at the model: if the silhouette is clear and interesting, the conversion works.
Recommended Hobby Kits and Tools
| Item | Why | Level |
|---|---|---|
| Hobby starter tool set | Knife, cutters, files in one buy | Beginner |
| Green stuff (2-part putty) | Gap-filling and sculpting | All |
| Pin drill set | Strong joins for heavy bitz | Intermediate |
| Spares/bitz assortment packs | Instant parts library | All |
(Affiliate links — buying through them supports more guides.)
FAQ
Is kitbashing expensive?
It’s the cheapest way to unique models — most bitz come from kits you already own. The tool investment (~$30–50) is the only real cost.
Will kitbashed models be tournament-legal?
Usually yes if dimensions stay honest and the model clearly represents what its rules say. Check event policies for proxies.
Can I mix plastic, resin and metal parts?
Yes — but use the right glue for each join and pin resin-to-plastic joins; super glue alone fails on heavy parts.
How do I learn what parts fit together?
Build one conversion from one donor kit with only weapon swaps first. Scale awareness grows with every project.
Continue on the Workbench
- 👉 Best Hobby Tools for Miniature Painting — the tooling behind clean conversions
- 👉 3D Printed Terrain for Tabletop Games — print your own bitz
- 👉 Easy Weathering Techniques — unify kitbashed parts with grime
- 👉 The Fractured Factions of the Warpstorm — lore to inspire your next conversion
Your spares box is an unopened army. Build one conversion this month — even a single weapon swap counts. Get the kitbashing tool set → (affiliate links)
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