Short answer: Block in the glow with a dark base, add a midtone halo around the light source, then build a gradient of three brighter tones toward the centre and finish with pinpoint white highlights. Add reflected glow on nearby surfaces — that final step is what makes plasma effects look real instead of painted-on.

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What You Need

  • Primer (black or very dark grey — glow needs a dark canvas)
  • Base colour for the glow core (e.g. deep blue or violet)
  • 2–3 lighter shades of the same hue (up to near-white for the hottest point)
  • A dark contrast colour for the surrounding areas
  • Fine detail brush (#0 or #1)
  • Optional: glaze medium for smooth transitions

Step 1: Choose the Light Source

Decide before painting where the light comes from: a plasma coil, a weapon barrel, glowing eyes, or a portal. One clear source beats three confused ones. Mark the spot with a dot of the brightest colour — this is your anchor for the entire gradient.

Step 2: Block In the Glow

Paint the whole glow area in your darkest tone of the effect colour. Around it, sketch the midtone halo — the zone that will catch the light. Keep edges rough at this stage; you’ll clean them up with the gradient.

Step 3: Build the Gradient

Work from the outside in: darkest at the edges, brighter toward the source. Thin paint, multiple passes. The transition zone between two shades should be soft — drybrush or glaze the boundary if you see a hard step.

Step 4: Add Reflected Light

This is the step most beginners skip — and the one that sells the effect. Take your midtone and add a few thin streaks on surfaces near the source: adjacent panels, the weapon housing, the ground below. If a surface would catch that light in reality, it needs a hint of it.

Step 5: Final Highlights

Tiny, sharp dots of near-white at the very core. Small is critical — a big white blob kills the illusion in one brushstroke.

Common Mistakes

  • Too bright too early — you can always add brightness, but you can’t remove it
  • Skipping reflected light — the number-one reason glow looks flat
  • Warm and cool mixed — pick one hue family per effect (green glow = green reflections)
  • Giant cores — plasma coils are thin; keep the hottest point small

The Warpstorm Twist

Give your models the Warpstorm signature: paint the glow in storm-green/turquoise or violet portal-light, then use the same hue for the reflected light on armour panels. A squad painted with a shared glow colour reads as one coherent force from across the table — and matches the Warpstorm aesthetic perfectly.

Recommended Paints and Tools

ItemWhyLevel
Starter acrylic set (blues/violets/greens)Covers every glow hue you needBeginner
Glaze mediumSmooths gradients without re-thinningIntermediate
Kolinsky detail brush #0Sharp pinpoint highlightsAll
Wet paletteKeeps thin glow mixes workable for hoursAll

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FAQ

Is OSL (object source lighting) the same as painting glow?

OSL is the broader technique — painted glow is its simplest form. True OSL adds reflected light on all surrounding surfaces; this guide includes that in Step 4.

Which colours work best for beginner plasma effects?

Green and teal are the most forgiving — they’re bright, contrast strongly with dark bases, and a slightly uneven blend still looks intentional.

Can I paint glow effects over a light primer?

It works but fights you: glow relies on dark surroundings for contrast. Prime dark, or paint a dark zone around the glow first.

How do I make multiple glowing units look consistent?

Mix one batch of each shade on a wet palette and paint all units in one session. Consistency between squads is what makes an army glow look deliberate.

Continue on the Workbench

Paint one test model before the squad. Ten minutes on a single miniature saves three hours of repainting. Get the glow palette → (affiliate links)


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